As I was processing this, I noticed the reflection of the streetlight, it is in all my shots from this ride through. ; Anyone know what is causing this? [attachimg=1]
What lens were you using, and did you use a filter? ; If so, maybe a reflection off the glass of the filter? (Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk)
That could also be a lens flare although I've never seen my 50 f1.4 do that. ; Usually simple lenses that don't have a ton of elements aren't very prone to flare, but I guess it's possible if the conditions are just right
I stopped using them altogether. ; The issues weren't worth the little bit of protection. ; Lens hoods are just as good as long as you're careful.
I recommend spending the extra bucks for a good multicoated filter, such as the Hoya HD line. ; I'd rather break or scratch a filter than the front element. ; But I will remove the filter when shooting bright point subjects at night, like fireworks.
I haven't sworn off filters entirely, as some still have some purpose (like polarizers for shooting waterborne wildlife to cut sun reflection and mirroring on the water) - but for any kind of night shots, low light shots, etc, off come the filters. ; While the very best multicoated variety MIGHT not give you flare issues and reflections, it's still better to get rid of them and eliminate the chances!
I agree with Dennis. ; With the trains I shoot, the risk of scratching the front element because I didn't see a cinder before I wiped the lens clean makes filters a good idea, so I have a set of the high end Hoya's on my lenses. ; I've found that my 28-70 is the only lens in my bag prone to filter induced flare when shooting at nit, so I'll remove the filter from that lens during night shoots where the cinder risk is reduced because the locomotives are sitting still most of the time. As a side note, filters a great idea in Yellowstone. ; Half of the geysers are acidic. ; Moose showed us a filter that saved one of his lenses out there once. ; He told us the wind shifted on him suddenly and the steam hit the filter and took a large area of the coating off. ; The $75 filter saved a $2,000 lens.
Of course, filters like polarizers and ND whole and grad filters have their purpose. ; What I am saying is to keep a filter on 100% of the time for protection is not really needed. ; Like getting warts from frogs, it's a myth. Now, if you are going to be shooting where there is risk of something landing on your front lens element which could harm it, then yes, a UV filter would be a good idea. Again, when it is needed.
I wouldn't call it a myth, it's a remnant from the film days when you had a real purpose for a UV filter to be on all the time.
