HDR how to?

If you are referring to the one on flickr, it isn't.

But I too was intrigued by HDR.

http://www.hdrsoft.com/

Is the only thing I could find on Google that wasn't just photos. They have a good FAQ.



In theory, you should be able to use the S3's auto bracketing mode (AEB) to take the pictures - the disadvantage is that you will be shooting 8 bit JPEGs rather than 12/14 bit RAW files, which contain much more data.

But -+ 2 stops of exposure values might not be enough to capture the scene. But your camera does have a "Manual" mode, so it can be done!

 

Based on what I'm reading - no.

Unless you took bracketed shots or had underexposed then overexposed images.

 

BTW, welcome to the 'boards, stryker.

 

funny thing is, that wasn't my picture....
it was a misunderstanding by one of my friends who thought that someone was using my photo as theirs. but welcome anyhow, i am sure you'll like it here.

 

You can convert pictures already taken, as long as they are the same shot at different exposures. Any difference at all in the angle, scene, etc, and you'll get some strange effects and haloing, and have trouble aligning the shots. But I have in fact gone back using an HDR program and blended two photos I've taken years ago successfully (these were shots where the camera was tripod mounted, and I had taken one or two shots first to get the exposure right, then the final shot metered for the highlights. Using HDR, I was able to go back and add lightened shadow areas with good detail and color using those initial metering shots.

The general advice is fairly simple:
- use a tripod or a fixed camera location! Any movement at all, and you'll have to try to realign the pictures, crop them, then perform an HDR blend. And sometimes they can't be realigned without attempting a radial shift...or harmful parallax distortion kills any chance of ever lining up the two shots perfectly.
-Avoid movement in the shot - obviously, hard to blend and stack two, three, or four shots where the subject moves, because it will be in a different spot in each photo. Even a windy day can mess with blending photos - leaves and tree branches tend to move around too much leaving you with haloes and ghost images.
- Shoot for as much exposure range as you want. Your camera probably has a bracketing burst mode with a variance of as much as +-1/2 - that will be enough for a minor HDR blend. But even better is to use manual mode to fix the shutter and ISO, then adjust the aperture one stop at a time, taking the same photo without moving the camera. You may end up with 8, 10, or more shots that you can stack and blend in HDR to get maximum dynamic range.
- When stacking the photos - you can use an HDR blending software that will automatically stack and blend the images for you, or some newer versions of PhotoShop have an HDR merge function built in. When done in software that allows you to manipulate the blending of each layer before saving, you can fine tune the final result to get it the way you want. My noise reduction software, Helicon, also has HDR merge functionality, so I usually use that.

Sometimes, you may want to use it just to get a little more detail out of a shadow against a strongly backlit background...in a realistic way (the human eye has far greater dynamic range than a camera lens, so sometimes to match what we can see, we must find 'cheats' in photography). Other times, you may want to stack a huge range of exposures, as many as 8 or 9 stops between them all, to get a surreal-looking shot, interesting in its own right!

 

I like the macaw pic. You have some good photos, don't berate yourself too much. Welcome to the board

 

PM sent.

And you have some very nice shots in your galleries!

I especially like your shot of the polynesian fire dancer close-up, looking at the fire stick with the rain streaking through the shot - that's a great portrait!

 

ya know, barrie... it's funny you should post that gallery in light of what happened earlier today...

(some folks that that he was taking my images and reposting them without permission but it worked out and was resolved shortly thereafter).

his pics are amazing and he has quite a talent for photoshop.

 

Hi Stryker.

First, make sure you bring your own water. It'll probably be very humid And hot. I did the photography thing on the National Mall on 7/4/99. If you are taking the Metro, expect a wait of a few hours to get out of the city. The stations will be packed. Along with the trains.

What camera do you have?

 

Dur, I saw in your other post you have the S3 IS.

There is an "AEB" setting, I think you get to it from the menu button on the back. In the functions it should say AEB. Then you move the wheel/menu from left to right and you will see two little arrows come out from the center. You should be able to set up to +- 2 stops of exposure setting with AEB - just remember that when you take the picture, it will take all three right after each other.